Cafe 668

Self-taught cook Ngoc Lam draws on her Southeast Asian heritage to create a unique spin on Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese vegetarian cuisine that travels far beyond its Buddhist roots. Forget the faux pho -- though it's exquisite -- and start with Salad Number One, a julienne of shredded deep-fried tofu, bell peppers, cuke and grilled cashews in an explosive vinaigrette. It's been at the top of 668's chart since this tiny spot opened last winter. Hubby Hon Quach fronts the narrow house with genuine hospitality, and snazzy new decor includes black rubber slipcovers recycled from Volkswagens. Café 668 exemplifies new Toronto cuisine.