Nirvana

A big space favoured by large groups who watch, from behind a wall of glass, as the chef feeds three tandoori ovens and fiddles with countless metal skewers. His expertise is evident from the first bite of naan, which arrives light and fluffy and accented by charred bits. He’s also evidently mastered the deep fryer, as seen in paneer ke gulgule, a sextet of ungreasy, lightly battered paneer.