Ambassador

Hypnotically suburban, the panoramic view from this elegant perch above a pulsing Chinatown north thoroughfare is strangely soothing. A pot of potent pouli tea further sets the tone. The menu mixes modern and traditional, spanning multiple culinary sub-regions—from Guangzhou and Shanghai to Beijing and beyond, though focusing mostly on Szechuan and Cantonese fare—its strength reflecting the Chinese affinity for seafood.