Across the Road

Since June, Across the Road has been serving its market well, catering to the upper middle class meat-and-potatoes set who crave the food they grew up with -- but up a notch. Indeed, by 8 p.m. on a Monday night no less, the place is so packed, regulars are actually sitting at the bar, a rather unadorned nook that looks more like a large server station. Appropriately, service is very attentive, although it suffers from that stiff old-school formality reflected by the choice of an all-male team of mature waiters.